In Praise of Short Hair
Feat. Ellie Pithers's Fashion Proust Questionnaire
It’s been a rough few days for France. Political upheaval aside —vote how you please but please vote next weekend, mes amis— two of my most favourite female French icons have left us. First Françoise Hardy, and today, the extraordinary Anouk Aimée.
About a decade ago, this guy I was seeing told me that if I watched one Italian film in my life it had better be 8 1/2 (he was a little older than me and shocked I’d never seen it: a typical cultural Monday-on-Tuesday occupational hazard of age-gap involvement). The fling went nowhere but I have Anouk Aimée’s face in Fellini’s masterpiece etched in my mind to this day. In fact it’s about all I can remember about the film —that and a feeling of intense emotion without having much idea what was actually going on.
So impressed was I by the actress’s on-screen presence and elegance that, years later, when I was pregnant with my daughter, I fought hard to call her Anouk. It was a battle I did not win. Luckily Marc came up with an equally iconic alternative. Plus Mia is blonde and blue-eyed so I guess it suits her better anyway.
But on this rainy June morning, when BFM info newsflashed into my notifications that Anouk Aimée had just died in her Paris apartment, (how do they do that when I don’t even follow them?) I did shed a tear. Then set about an intense Google image searching mission, as one does.
Just look at her.
Audrey Hepburn and, maybe, Twiggy are often cited as the ultimate short-haired icons, but I would hasten to add Anouk to the top of the list. She didn’t always wear it short but when she did, man did it suit her. I think close crops, on the right face shape and when chopped correctly, are about the most sophisticated statement a woman can make.
This is exemplified by my good friend the British journalist Ellie Pithers. I first met Ellie when I was living in London, and was honoured when she asked me to contribute to British Vogue (she was Digital Director at the time). Having hit it off in person, our relationship was taken to a new level in the way that only an editor-writer rapport can do. From my side anyway. Ellie, if you’re reading this for grammatical errors, now you know my feeeeelings! (sp?)
Ellie started her career as a writer on The Telegraph Magazine, then worked as a fashion writer on the newspaper before moving to British Vogue in 2015 as Fashion Features Editor. Her time as Digital Director of the magazine was, in my humble and totally unbiased opinion, marked by content that was diverse, intelligent and fun as can be, both on the site and its social media platforms (not a small job).
To my great joy Ellie and her now husband Ollie moved to Paris in 2021. It’s a treat having her here for IRL tête-à-têtes. (My tête, unkempt, hers perfectly coiffed). And no one loves a park jaunt with Aunt Ellie more than Anouk/Mia DLV.
Here is Ellie’s Fashion Proust Questionnaire.
What is your idea of a perfect outfit?
Depends where I’m headed, but ideally it would be a look that doesn’t require specialist underwear, can accommodate lunch, and won’t crease as soon as I sit down. If I’m off to a party, it’s probably going to be a variant on the kind of cocktail dress that makes me feel so fab it elicits an impromptu wiggle in front of the mirror. I’m thinking of a taffeta Dries Van Noten cocktail dress I got in the Mytheresa sale several years ago in electric blue. But also, straight-leg blue jeans, a crispy shirt and freshly washed hair have never let me down.
What is your greatest fashion fear?
Platform shoes.
What, in hindsight, is the worst outfit you’ve ever worn?
I decided to method dress at the age of 16 for my school prom, which was a lame attempt by a straitlaced British girls’ school to recreate an all-American tradition. I wore a bright red ruffled vintage dress with a navy star-printed rosette at the hip and black patent shoes that were a size too small. I felt I was in on the joke but, in retrospect, perhaps the joke was on me.
What is the worst outfit you’ve ever seen on someone else?
Most child actors’ red-carpet looks make me want to cry.
Which living person’s style do you most admire?
Miuccia Prada. No notes. I also love Ali MacGraw (and this NYT interview made me love her even more), British Vogue’s Chioma Nnadi and contributing fashion director Kate Phelan, Lemaire’s Sarah-Linh Tran, the designer Faye Toogood, Zadie Smith, Zoë Kravitz, Maggie Gyllenhaal (excellent hair)… also my Grandpa Brian, who is 90 and wears a shirt and tie every day.
What is your greatest extravagance?
Flying.
What is your current state of mind with regards to the fashion industry?
I think anyone working in fashion today has to be feeling Janus-faced from an ecological and sociological perspective – shame seems to exist in close proximity to luxury these days.
What do you consider the most overrated style virtue?
The concept of having “a signature style”. To bastardise Diana Vreeland, a little variation – or an off-piste item you love – is like a nice splash of paprika. You’re allowed to change your mind, and your look.
On what occasion do you lie about someone’s outfit?
If they’re about to walk down the aisle. In general, though, I usually can’t button my opprobrium.
What is the quality you like most in a man’s outfit?
I am very judgmental about footwear. Forrest Gump’s Momma was right about so many things, particularly that there’s an awful lot you can tell about a person by their shoes. (“Where they going, where they been.”)
What is the quality you like most in a woman’s outfit?
I’m always curious about the details – the heart-breaking touches that show someone has made an effort. The way a shirt is tucked into a trouser, a belt cinched round a waist, a scarf flung around the shoulders…
Which fashion trend do you most despise?
“Naked dresses” can fuck off.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse when describing fashion?
“Heaven!” I even used it to describe tuna last week. Kill me.
Which runway collection in history was your greatest love?
I should and could reel off the historic Dior or Balenciaga shows, but from those I have witnessed personally, it’s Prada Fall 2017. Shell necklaces, beaded fluffy mohair sweaters, feathers sprouting from skirt hems and shoe straps, Hitchcock heroine dresses, thigh-high boots, fringed leather jackets… every look is perfection.
When were you happiest with your own look?
When I was a junior reporter at the Telegraph, I was dispatched to interview Debbie Harry. After much deliberation, I wore a mini kilt and shiny black Christopher Kane Chelsea boots with neon-yellow ankle inserts. When I walked in she said “nice boots”.
If you could change one thing about your wardrobe, what would it be?
I realized a long time ago that I look goofy in a leather jacket, but I am willing to be proved wrong.
What do you consider your greatest achievement, career-wise (so far!)
Moving to Paris and conducting a four hour-long interview with an architect about his restoration efforts of the Grand Palais, entirely in French! Shout out to Florence Harang, my French teacher, who prepped me magnificently.
Where on earth do you get the most style inspiration?
Taking public transport.
What do you consider the lowest depth of fashion rock-bottom (ie. Karl’s sweatpants)
Anything from Shein.
Who are your favourite fashion writers?
The modernist writer Elizabeth Bowen is my north star when it comes to teasing out how “one’s clothes are part of what one has got to say”. (Read “Shoes: An International Episode”, a short story set in the south of France in which the character’s “good brogues” go missing, and you’ll see what I mean. Deborah Levy is also good on specific items contributing to character.) Also: Rachel Tashjian, Cathy Horyn, Lauren Collins (hi Lauren), Lauren Sherman, Polly Devlin, Robin Givhan, Robin Muir.
Who is your style hero in fiction?
Virginia Woolf’s Orlando.
Which historical figure’s style do you most identify with?
Elizabeth I, whose dedication to making red hair “a thing” apparently extended to dyeing the manes and tails of her horses the same colour. I don’t have this kind of budget, but I admire the dedication.
Which individual that you know (or have known) personally most influenced your style?
Sounds cheesy but the stylist Kate Phelan’s Vogue shoots were all over my wall as a teenager. Later, we worked together at Vogue, where she is affectionately known as “Yoda”. If we were ever on a 10-minute shopping spree between fashion shows in Milan or Paris and she told me I would look good in something, I just handed over the credit card and crossed my fingers. She was never wrong.
What would you like to wear to your own funeral?
An Egyptian death mask would be cool.
What is your style motto?
Only connect! The epigraph to E M Forster’s ‘Howards End’, which makes a good motto for love, life and clothes.
"Where on earth do you get the most style inspiration? Taking public transport."
Yes. So much inspo here because it's from a broad cross-section of society, parts you don't cross paths with in your day-to-day, and usually don't make the press.
Such a beautiful read, she seems like a dream friend to have!