Lessons in Monochrome
With Lara Burnell, founder of Aussie brand PANTALON
Blind Insta-friend dates are weird aren’t they? Either you spot the person immediately or spend ages searching, only to be thrown off the orignal scent. I guess blind romantic dates are similar.
It wasn’t hard to spot designer Lara Burnell as I arrived at Cafe de La Mairie the other day though. Poised, with a luscious black bob and total-black look to match, she was the mot elegant person in Place St Sulpice —and the most Parisian-looking. Funny, given she only moved here from Sydney a few weeks ago. So taken was I, by Lara’s slightly mysterious, potential secret agent aesthetic, I sent her my version of a style-crush valentine (ie. The Fashion Proust Questionnaire) then and there.
Lara is founder of trouser brand PANTALON, and embodies what I understand of the coolest of Aussie-girl style as well — minimalist, understatedly sexy, with a particular aptitude for warm-weather dressing. Summer in the city seems to be their sweet spot —cc. Matteau— and Lara’s lightweight trousers are a testament to this.
Lara also apparently excels at multitasking. She founded PANTALON as an independent and while working full time at a different job. She told me at coffee that developing clothing on her own terms is her outlet, in view of gradually building ou a womenswear wardrobe. She started with pants (or trousers, for Brits!) because, “when well done, it’s he most important article of clothing that can demonstrate strength in style and character for a woman.”
The name -pantalon- is the word for trousers in Tagalog, the language which she grew up with (Lara is half Filipino). “I like that it’s a universal word and reflects essentialness” says Lara, who was also guided by this David Lynch quote when conceiving the brand:
I’m searching for a good pair of pants; I never found a pair of pants that I just love. I like comfortable pants and clothes I can work in, that I feel comfortable in. I don’t really like to get dressed up. I like to wear the same thing every day and feel comfortable. It’s a fit, it’s a certain kind of feeling, and if they’re not right, which they never are, it’s a sadness. You know, it interrupts the flow of happiness. I’m working on it, believe me. - David Lynch
“Pantalon” is of course the French word for pants too, and now that she’s based in Paris, Lara plans to let the project evolve with her, as she immerses herself in the French sensibility — “the contemporary brands and independent boutiques here inspire me so much”. Lara may be drawing inspo from her new city, but I guarantee the reverse will soon be happening too. Here’s Lara’s Fashion Proust Questionnaire:
What is your idea of a perfect outfit?
Trousers, short-heeled boots, a coat and a small bag. The weather is Autumn in this case and I’m preferably in the city.
What is your greatest fashion fear?
Uncomfortable shoes
What, in hindsight, is the worst outfit you’ve ever worn?
I once spent too much money on a black leather jacket that I didn’t get enough wear from, it was an oversized fit but I was just giving in to a trend that didn’t suit me. I couldn’t look at it, I couldn’t keep it.
What is the worst outfit you’ve ever seen on someone else?
I grew up in suburban and rural areas of Australia so bad outfits don’t phase me much but I do think shorts, flip-flops and a singlet on the plane is pretty dire.
Which living person’s style do you most admire?
I like Tonne Goodman - white jeans, black turtlenecks and minimal accessories. You can tell she’s comfortable with her wardrobe and herself.
What is your greatest extravagance?
My vintage 1970s Le Smoking tuxedo jacket by Yves Saint Laurent. The cut is supreme and shapes subtly at the waistline. There’s a heavy coin sewn into the back hem of the jacket to keep its structure.
I feel like I’m apart of something special when I’m wearing it.
What is your current state of mind with regards to the fashion industry?
I’m gravitating towards smaller to mid-level brands which have a clear point of view and produce the best possible quality.
What do you consider the most overrated style virtue?
One can look effortless but that’s usually a result of understanding oneself and the thought it takes to dress well and find the right pieces. So, I think the idea of being effortless can be overplayed.
On what occasion do you lie about someone’s outfit?
The tactical lie.. I don’t think I could do it – even if it’s awkward.
What is the quality you like most in a man’s outfit?
Functionality and simplicity.
What is the quality you like most in a woman’s outfit?
Softness and drape of fabric, silhouette of the body.
Which fashion trend do you most despise?
Clunky soles, exaggerated square toes.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse when describing fashion?
“Special”.
Which runway collection in history was your greatest love?
I don’t have a particular runway collection but Giorgio Armani’s archive over the decades shown at Silos in Milan has stayed with me. The pieces are organised in eras across multiple floors and the best part is the clothing is displayed on mannequins that are in motion so you can appreciate the fabrications and up close as there’s no barrier.
When were you happiest in your own look?
When I was able to start designing my own pieces at PANTALON. It really changed the way I dressed. It simplified everything.
Which designer’s talent would you most like to have?
Giorgio Armani’s sensitivity to ease of fit on the body and sensuality of fabric to the skin.
If you could change one thing about your wardrobe, what would it be?
It’s more of an addition than a change but I’m dreaming of these Husband’s boots, I’m waiting for them to restock them in my size.
What do you consider your greatest achievement, career-wise (so far!)
Starting a brand on my own, when I realised that I had something of my own to say.
If you were to die and come back as a fashion item, what would it be?
An heirloom pendant in gold. I have my mum’s and its truly the most timeless fashion accessory.
Where on earth do you get the most style inspiration?
Print and films both inspire me: libraries, independent or second-hand bookshops, the cinema, internet archives. I once found an entire archive of The Face on an online marketplace and the seller lived a few streets away from me. If we have friends over for dinner, they usually come out at some stage.
What is your most treasured possession?
My most recent addition, which is my wedding ring. It’s a gold, structural 1970s design that forms to the subtle shape of an S, the initial of my husband’s name. We got married in 2023, but I waited until I found one that resonated.
What do you consider the lowest depth of fashion rock-bottom (ie. Karl’s sweatpants)?
Rick Owens has that quote where he says it’s all about the hair and the shoes, and everything else is forgivable. So, if something’s going really wrong it’s probably one of those two things (usually the shoes).
What is your favourite fashion-related occupation?
I think stylists hold an interesting place in the industry. Good stylists see everything, they’re connected to what’s happening and they usually have a big network. It’s interesting because a stylist is probably a generalist by nature but to tie it all together is kind of a speciality. A good stylist.. you know one when you see one.
What is your most marked style characteristic?
A black trouser of course.
Who are your favourite fashion writers?
Lucianne Tonti , Christopher Niquet
Who is your style hero in fiction?
Alain Delon in Le Samouraï
Which historical figure’s style do you most identify with?
Jackie Onassis, in particular the New York years where she wore lots of classics – waisted trench coats, mid-block heel boots, cashmeres, rollnecks and trousers. Maybe it’s an older sister thing.
Which individual that you know (or have known) personally most influenced your style?
A London-based friend of mine who wears variations of the same smartly tailored and functional pieces and always looks at ease. The bag she carries is made from a soft fabric which was remnants from her old favourite top, she had it made into a shoulder bag. It’s a simple, uniform style of dressing but not without personality and I find this so attractive in a person.
What would you like to wear to your own funeral?
I was going to say my YSL jacket but seems a bit morbid to be buried in that, I guess I don’t really care because it’s not my problem.
What is your style motto?
I only ever have up to 10 pairs of shoes, we don’t need any more than this. That includes trainers.
So happy I got the learn about PANTALON and this stylish woman.
Bravo!
Divinely chic x two. Love.