Lolita Jacobs's Fashion Proust Questionnaire
Name a chicer Frenchy, I'll wait.
My Lolita Jacobs intro may sound a little stalkerish. (Particularly to Lolita Jacobs!)
But the first time I became aware of Lolita Jacobs was over ten years ago, while I was living in London. I randomly saw her photo in a designer friend-of-a-friend’s new lookbook and could not look away. Neither could Paris fashion-obsessed British pals.
Her elegance was striking. It was the rare kind that goes beyond the clothes. Of course, the clothes were dead-cool but there was something more to her in the photo: she had that confidence about her that only people of rare taste possess. You know, the ones to whom it comes naturally, without having to take themselves seriously at all.
It was fashion-love at first sight.
Fast forward a decade and I’ve had some time to observe Lolita’s looks, more recently up close because we are now friends (!!)
So here’s my take. Lolita’s a master of timeless French dressing but it’s her knack for unpredictable extras that puts her style on another level. There’s refreshing androgyny to her looks, and definitely the aforementioned confidence —she’s the living breathing definition of that old elusive je ne sais quoi…
But Lolita’s use of accessories is truly unparalleled. She flings them about herself with the ease of a seasoned expert, refined beyond her years. She references trends without looking the least bit overwhelmed by them. I think the accessories work because the base is so unfussy, the fits are precise, and the colour codes hit that sweet spot between boring and too much. Thus, the unexpected waist scarves, ties, geek glasses, oversized men’s shoes, look une evidence.
Observing Lolita’s looks over the years, I can firmly say have never seen her put a foot wrong. Nor a cuff, scarf, or bracelet for that matter. When we finally met I was struck by how humble Lolita was —struck, but not surprised. A sign of true confidence, I reckon.
A bit of background if you’re just meeting her now: Lolita is a Paris-based stylist and creative director who joined forces with her husband Jean-Baptiste Talbourdet-Napoleone in 2016 to found their namesake creative agency LJBTN. Together, they’re known for sprinkling that extra big of magic that makes a brand feel fresh AF — ie. specialising in image strategy for a wide list of big name clients— including Chanel and Gucci, and M Le Monde, (my all time favourite newspaper supplement mag) of which Talbourdet-Napoleone is Creative Director. Lolita, meanwhile, is Fashion Director of cult favourite Letiquette Magazine.
One more unique thing about Lolita: she doesn’t shout about herself on social media. Like, at all. So it’s an honour to give you a rarer bit of insight into her ideas.
Here is Lolita’s Fashion Proust Questionnaire.
What is your idea of a perfect outfit?
Denim that makes long legs and a beautiful behind, a good quality round-neck white long sleeve t-shirt, a tailored blazer with meaningful shoulders which finishes the silhouette. I usually knot a bandana scarf around my upper waist and add lots of necklaces.
Black slip-on Vans are my everyday go to. The only sneakers I wear!
What is your greatest fashion fear?
That it doesn’t feel like me, to feel uptight in my clothes.
What, in hindsight, is the worst outfit you’ve ever worn?
I’d say the snow white costume with leopard tights and pink velvet shoes for a preschool class photo, an outfit my mother styled. Though, thinking of it now, it may actually have been my best…
What is the worst outfit you’ve ever seen on someone else?
Certain celebrities these days need help. I know the contract is good, but please pick the right stylist !
Which living person’s style do you most admire?
In the real world, my sister Java does great vintage associations. She’s the Californian version of me. She has that never ending teenage shaped silhouette. Emmanuelle Alt always has something I immediately want to wear. A soft over sized suede jacket, a great pair of leather sandals.
My friend Audrey Houssin, I find her extremely elegant. We somehow have the same taste even though we are very different. I also mostly get inspired by a lot of men’s wardrobe. My husband‘s style is pretty great and even rather bold sometimes.
What is your greatest extravagance?
Shoes. I weirdly enjoy having longer-looking feet when wearing what is considered to be “men lace up shoes” I never take my actual size. Still my obsession with elongating the legs.
What is your current state of mind with regard to the fashion industry?
I work for this industry. It is my everyday, it has been for quite some time now, so I feel grateful to be a part of it, to evolve in it. Nevertheless, it doesn’t define my life or my state of mind regarding its constant excesses. I feel I respect the industry as much as I am often disappointed by it.
What do you consider the most overrated style virtue?
Quiet luxury: you’re not very quiet when you wear something that expensive. Even if it’s beige and soft. Those who know know. And it’s ok.
On what occasion do you lie about someone’s outfit?
At a wedding probably ? Which are often a condensed space of so many different tastes. “Love your dress !” But I usually never lie, I tell my son it’s ok if he loves something and I don’t. “Tous les goûts sont dans la nature.” Cheesy but true.
What is the quality you like most in a man’s outfit?
I adore a suit, a summer suit worn with a t-shirt and white sneakers, a wool winter suit worn with a thin round neck sweater, a tailored high waisted suit… Add a tie and I melt.
Also natural ease in general. Get yourself a good pair of everything basic. The right vintage or Japanese denim, the right pair of shoes that ages rightfully. You don’t need much.
Sometimes it’s also nothing. It can be as simple as a good manucure (yes gentlemen, take care of those puppies) and a beautiful wrist.
What is the quality you like most in a woman’s outfit?
I like anything that makes a woman feel confident. Personally I have a lot of respect for difference and originality in general. I like the details that brings the right eccentricity, the key to a good outfit.
More concretely, I would answer exactly as above for the men. A good fitted or oversized suit and a tie, she’s my girl.
Which fashion trend do you most despise?
I really don’t like flip flops, yes even in leather or embellished. I can’t stand the sound. The feeling. Not my thing, never was. Never will be.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse when describing fashion?
“Elevated” is the new “modern”. I feel I hear that word a lot these days in meetings.
Which runway collection in history was your greatest love?
Probably Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme Spring 2006. I wanted everything, it was such a revelation for me. I was androgynous, had short hair, I lived in London at the time so I was embracing it full on. I still wear some pieces from that era.
When were you happiest with your own look?
Right now. I hate to admit it but… the older I get…
Which designer’s talent would you most like to have?
The ability Matthieu Blazy has to take his time, impose his own rhythm. No social media frenzy. Desirability at its best.
If you could change one thing about your wardrobe, what would it be?
I would like to know how to sort out my wardrobe! I get so emotional about the pieces I own and have worn at a certain time and place, I can’t throw anything and I accumulate. So I would work on my neurosis and be as minimal as can be.
What do you consider your greatest achievement, career-wise (so far!)
To have built a sustainable business working hand in hand with my life partner, and still find him funny and hot.
If you were to die and come back as a fashion item, what would it be?
A watch. That gets transmitted from generation to generation.
Where on earth do you get the most style inspiration?
The streets of Paris, as I ride my bike I get to observe the diversity of the crowds according to neighborhoods. Always a detail to retain for inspiration.
What is your most treasured possession?
My son, but I don’t posses him ! Do I ? Allo Catherine Dolto ;) More seriously, all of my childhood clothing items my mother kept for 30 years that my son actually wears to this day.
What do you consider the lowest depth of fashion rock-bottom (ie. Karl’s sweatpants)?
Uniqlo down jackets. I cannot. Dad if you read this… Also, mini invisible socks.
What is your favourite fashion-related occupation?
The corporate gossip conversations with all my friends working in the industry. I love to know who goes where, who does what, who sleeps with who.
What is your most marked style characteristic?
High waisted pants, preferably belted. Unbrushed hair. Lots of necklaces. Imposing reading glasses.
Who are your favourite fashion writers?
The wit of Marc Beaugé, inimitable. My friend Loic Prigent, I find him so sensitive and cultivated, I always learn something. He perceives what others don’t. Sophie Fontanel, who as well as being very intelligent is hilarious but most importantly always has a benevolent eye. Rare in this business.
Who is your style hero in fiction?
Not really fiction but almost : Diane Keaton in most of Woody Allen’s filmography / David Bowie Live album cover, suit era / John Lennon 1980 NYC Yoko era / Miles Davis any era !
Which historical figure’s style do you most identify with?
Is Marcello Mastroianni considered historical ? Also Fran Leibowitz, definitely historical.
Which individual that you know (or have known) personally most influenced your style?
The closest women in my life, from my grandmother to my mother and my sister. All very original personas.
What would you like to wear to your own funeral?
Id like to avoid attending that event but if you insist… a good suit. Not necessarily black as I despise anything conventional.
What is your style motto?
There are no bad ideas, only bad executions. Keep it simple. Let it rip.
___
Weekly Recs
Watch:
After a several-year fallout with with Netflix (a fridge full of food with nothing you want to eat is the best comparison I’ve heard), I’m suddenly back in bed with the ‘flix as a result of the Martha Stewart documentary, and my newly-discovered obsession, The Diplomat (ft. Keri Russell , Felicity fans rejoice!)
Need:
I have truly never —even in my youth in Canada— experienced better winter socks than JCrew's Camp socks. Plus they don’t cut off your circulation at the top.
Speaking of circulation I had a miraculous body treatment with Paris-based Renata Franca and Kobido expert Charlotte Vidal to counteract the effects of too much airplane. She’s super-knowledgeable and has great advice and techniques for both face and body lympathic drainage (the French excel at this stuff—the rest of us are just catching up.) Recommend strongly if you’re passing through Paris. Prices are lower than a lot of her competitors and she comes to you, foldy-bed in hand!
Listen:
If you aren’t sick of me by the end of my newsletter, I told Jessie Chase my life story on The Social Medium podcast the other day. You can hear a five minute preview here but I promise it gets more interesting as we go on. You need to subscribe to hear the whole thing —worth it for the great guests who’ve gone before me!
Hello, great interview!
I’m a fan of her as well, I know her a bit too, and I must say, she’s truly exceptional—she shines and illuminates everyone and everything around her.
I didn’t think it was possible to love Lolita more then I already did 🥰
What a wonderful person. I wish I could call her my friend too 🤓
+ great writing and recommendations Monica!