Open Sesame: New AMA Liftoff!
Plus the Fashion Proust Questionnaire from Alighieri's Rosh Mahtani
Hear ye hear ye. Calling all paid subscribers over to the chat section for one wild weekend of open threads and no doubt scintillating conversation. That’s right, ask me anything re. fashion, Paris stuff, how I feel about Justin Trudeau and Gabby Attal’s Be Real today… anything (within reason!) HERE.
Meanwhile allow me to pontificate on something you definitely didn’t ask about.
I have this passion for discovering great songs that were written by unlikely artists absolutely not known for performing them.
Like, did you know that Justin Bieber’s ‘Love Yourself’ was written by Ed Sheeran? With no shade to The Bieb (Canadian, after all,) this perhaps explains why it’s the only one of his songs I’ve ever particularly enjoyed. Especially when sung a cappella so the harmonising at the end gets the attention it deserves.
Not only does this game make for a fun bit of pop culture trivia, it often explains why I’ll particularly love a song sung by an artist I’m not usually that obsessed with.
Here’s another example: much as I am enjoying most songs on Cowboy Carter, and not to do down the stunning country cameos by Willie Nelson and Dolly P, my absolute favourite Beyonce song remains Hold Up. Yes, controversial. But I feel there’s no other song above it, not even Halo. (Though Halo’s another one I love 10x more when she performs it in the most stripped back manner possible.)
Anyway, I couldn’t figure out what it was about Hold Up that’s made me listen to it 1 billion times sine 2016 without getting bored until I learned the original tune (and slightly tweaked refrain,) were written by none other than Ezra Koenig. Yeah. The guy from Vampire Weekend.
And yes, I do absolutely lurve me some Vampire Weekend to this day. It’s the millennial answer to Paul Simon’s Graceland with added vocal range from Koenig. Sheer, catchy brilliance and you’ll never convince me otherwise.
Finding this newsletter very random so far? The fashion’s coming but let’s throw in some weird Ainley family trivia while we’re at it: the woman in the yellow polo shirt on the cover of Vampire Weekend’s Contra looks so freakishly much like my mother when she was younger that my siblings and I had to get to the bottom of whether it was her or not when the album first came out. (It’s not. But… is it ???)
Apparently the actual woman in this photo is called Kristen Kennis. We know this because she purportedly first became aware that the band was using her likeness only when they began promoting the album. Allegedly the photo had been released on a forged signature in some sort of unlikely mixup. If it’s true, one feels badly for her.
I, however, suspect the whole palaver points to the actual truth: that the woman on the cover of Contra is, in fact, Susan Ainley nee Anderson of Toronto, Ontario.
But let’s move on.
Now, I’ve banged on before about Pharell’s mega talent as a songwriter (perhaps, dare I say, more so than as a fashion designer?) Songs like ‘Milkshake’ by Kelis, ‘Drop It Like It’s Hot’ by Snoop, ‘Get Lucky’ by Daft Punk… what do they all have common other than being incredibly rhythmically catchy? Pharell wrote them, that’s what.
Alighieri’s Rosh Mahtani writes all her own songs except they aren’t songs at all, they’re one-of-a-kind ornaments with as much thought and passion poured into them them as an entire orchestra. This constant sinfonietta goes on in Rosh’s imagination, with some help from her brand’s 13th C. poet namesake. So, a collaboration of sorts, to be fair: think of Dante as her Diplo.
Honoured to share Rosh’s Fashion Proust Questionnaire this week:
What is your idea of a perfect outfit?
An impeccably tailored, oversized black suit, nothing underneath and a statement Alighieri Modern Heirloom. Also - a vintage Levis 501s with a white tank and belt. So timeless.
What is your greatest fashion fear?
Orange, bright green, and in general, bright colours, alone or together!
What, in hindsight, is the worst outfit you’ve ever worn?
So many as a teenager! Probably combat trousers, platform trainers and a crop top... to school... in the winter! Why?
What is the worst outfit you’ve ever seen on someone else?
Savage! probably a few of them in Luton airport on a 7am flight.
Which living person’s style do you most admire?
So many actually! I think Julia Roberts 90s era was pure perfection.
What is your greatest extravagance?
Vintage collectables - I found the most incredibly Tom Ford YSL Tuxedo in New York, from 1999. I absolutely had to buy it, it feels like a piece of history.
What is your current state of mind with regards to the fashion industry?
Energised by creativity, exhausted by economic recession and fast fashion nonsense.
What do you consider the most overrated style virtue?
Being 'on-trend'.
On what occasion do you lie about someone’s outfit?
On a date?
What is the quality you like most in a man’s outfit?
A confidence coupled with great fabrics and fit. Also, I love a good baseball cap. I'm a sucker for it, every time! White shirt, battered blue jeans and a great cap.
What is the quality you like most in a woman’s outfit?
Ditto actually!
Which fashion trend do you most despise?
Logo-mania; and long nails.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse when describing fashion?
I do probably use the word 'timeless' several times a day.
Which runway collection in history was your greatest love?
Prada FW 1997
When were you happiest with your own look?
When Armani lent me a 1990s prototype black skirt suit, I would have bargained my soul to be able to keep it!
Which designer’s talent would you most like to have?
I'd love to be able to cut and tailor, it's such a gift.
If you could change one thing about your wardrobe, what would it be?
I need more space! I dream of having space between each hanger, to be able to almost categorise each piece and marchandise it like a store!
What do you consider your greatest achievement, career-wise (so far!)
The space we just curated for our new collection Votive Offerings, to mark 10 years of Alighieri felt so incredibly special.
If you were to die and come back as a fashion item, what would it be?
Great question! I'd like to come back as a vintage Calvin Klein slip skirt, ecru. Let me paint you a picture of her: she's easygoing, works well in any situation, fun but also serious. She gets to go to some great parties, she lives forever, and nobody messes with her.
Where on earth do you get the most style inspiration?
Books and movies.
What is your most treasured possession?
I have a few - a limited edition white suit created by Louise Trotter at Joseph, it's been with me for years and it never fails. A very rare 1930s leather bound copy of Dante's Divine Comedy.
What do you consider the lowest depth of fashion rock-bottom (ie. Karl’s sweatpants)
Juicy Couture, velour tracksuits in candy colours.
What is your favourite fashion-related occupation?
Photography
What is your most marked style characteristic?
Monochrome, oversized, long hair, a hand and arm stacked with jewellery.
Who are your favourite fashion writers?
Well, you are obviously one of them! Joan Didion, a close second.
Who is your style hero in fiction?
Elizabeth James (aka Natasha Richardson), mom to Annie and Halle in "The Parent Trap" - she's just so chic. Also, Jules (Julia Robert's character) in "My Best Friend's Wedding".
Which historical figure’s style do you most identify with?
Pina Bausch - she had her uniform,
Which individual that you know (or have known) personally most influenced your style?
My mum.
What would you like to wear to your own funeral?
A white silk slip dress with spaghetti straps - quite ethereal but ghostly at the same time.
What is your style motto?
Minimal colours and cuts, maximum jewellery.
She is the absolute best. Stylish, smart and one of the nicest people I ever met in fashion. Also I LOVE these Monica. More!
I’d love to deep dive into her mind, let alone her closet!